Bambu Lab A1 Mini
The closest thing to "it just works" in 3D printing right now. Prints cases, wrist rests, switch openers, and desk toys with almost no tinkering. The small bed is the only real limit — full-size keyboard cases need the A1.
Everything on this page is something we'd recommend to a friend starting out: one easy printer, the filaments and resins that actually get used, and the finishing supplies that make prints look store-bought. New to this? Read what actually works first.
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The closest thing to "it just works" in 3D printing right now. Prints cases, wrist rests, switch openers, and desk toys with almost no tinkering. The small bed is the only real limit — full-size keyboard cases need the A1.
Same easy experience as the Mini with a bigger bed that fits full-size keyboard cases and large wrist rests. If you know you'll print cases, start here and skip the upgrade later.
Any current 4K-or-better resin printer from the major brands does the job for keycap stems and artisan caps — this is the one category where FDM genuinely can't compete. Add this second, not first. Budget for ventilation and a respirator (below).
Start here. PLA prints easily, it's strong enough for every desk accessory, and it takes dye beautifully. Polymaker and Bambu's own PLA are both consistently good; color is personal, black and white go first.
For parts that take abuse or live somewhere warm — keyboard cases that travel, tenting legs, anything load-bearing. Slightly fussier to print than PLA, noticeably more durable.
Standard resin is brittle — a dropped keycap cracks. ABS-like/tough resin fixes that and is worth the small premium for anything that gets handled, which is every keycap.
A hot dye bath gives PLA deep, even color that can't chip because it's in the plastic. The synthetic-fiber formulas (like Rit DyeMore) are the ones that work — regular fabric dye won't take.
Primer hides layer lines and gives color something to grip; clear coat protects the finish from finger wear. The primer matters more than the paint brand. Any hardware-store acrylics do the job.
Wet-sanding through progressively finer grits before paint is what erases the layer-line look. Nobody wants to do it; everybody's finished prints look better because of it.
Resin fumes and spray paint both need real respiratory protection and ventilation — not a dust mask. Buy this before the resin printer, not after.